PATS reset

[Capnscoobing]

Hey all,

I have a 2012 Mustang that's coding P1260 - theft immobilization. I'm trying to find a way to reset the parameters so that I can program new keys. The issue should be resolved that caused the code. The problem I'm having is it's showing 0 keys programmed to the car and I can't program new keys while the P1260 code is active...

Any ideas?

[boosted_diesel]

P1260 occurs when the ignition is switched on by an unrecognised key i believe.

Sometimes when I program keys with active alarm I have to wait a certain amount of time before it will let me program the key.
Try waiting 15 minutes.

[Capnscoobing]

I've tried a few times, including days apart. it keeps failing saying the keys are not programmable. They were my working keys before the issue. It was originally coding the p1260, a long with u300a-94. I tested the battery, jumped the starter relay, tested the engine bay fuses and relays, tested the interior fuse box fuses and relays, and inspected the wiring and connections. I believed it was the ignition switch and replaced it. After replacement, I attempted to start the car but it remained coded p1260. I then attempted to reprogram the keys and ran into this issue. I can't seem to clear the p1260 and I wasn't able to find anything on IPC parameter resets or anything of the sort. There is a module initialization but it won't allow me to run it without two programmed keys

Also thanks for the reply!

[boosted_diesel]

Maybe an issue with the transponder reader? Around the ign key hole or in the start button for push start. Also the fob batteries need to be good if keyless, a voltage test alone isn’t sufficient for button cells. They need to be load tested.

[Capnscoobing]

Appreciate the addition info. I will swap out the key batteries and try again. Ill also just replace the transponder since its fairly inexpensive. After that I'll give up with Forscan for unlocking the p1260 and call a lockout guy that can reset the immo. I guess after deep diving and buying the paid version, 2012 model years and newer dont have the same PATS capabilities since Ford upgraded the PATS system. I will update after done.

[tractmec]

I've tried a few times, including days apart. it keeps failing saying the keys are not programmable. They were my working keys before the issue. It was originally coding the p1260, a long with u300a-94. I tested the battery, jumped the starter relay, tested the engine bay fuses and relays, tested the interior fuse box fuses and relays, and inspected the wiring and connections. I believed it was the ignition switch and replaced it. After replacement, I attempted to start the car but it remained coded p1260. I then attempted to reprogram the keys and ran into this issue. I can't seem to clear the p1260 and I wasn't able to find anything on IPC parameter resets or anything of the sort. There is a module initialization but it won't allow me to run it without two programmed keys

Also thanks for the reply!

An Idea of what the issue was that started this sad tale might be helpful! How did the vehicle end up with 0 keys in memory! Did you run the PATS erase all keys or was a module replaced(PCM, IPC)?

As far as I am aware a P1260(theft attempt detected) by itself should not disallow key Programming or at least it never has for me and It should be exactly what should have happened if there were 0 keys in memory and the Ignition was turned to start(Theft light flashing ect.)!
The same thing has happened to me when I inadvertently turned an UN-programmed key to start and had the Flashing Theft light all the warnings going off, P1260 set and I was still able to start PATS and program that key and two others!

U300 usually has to do with the PCM not receiving the Ignition Position Input state and if you are still having this DTC not able to be cleared it would certainly stop PATS keys from being read or written at all(On Off or Start/ISP-R PID Ignition switch Position open or shorted to ground)!

A PCM power relay with an Arced/Burned or Loose blade/socket terminal, burned or shorted PCM Power Diode can cause this type of failure as well(had this loose relay terminal happen and it was very difficult to track down)!

Just some suggestions, they may be all wrong but to me it sounds like you have something other than the P1260 code(should not prevent Key programming) causing these PATS problems!

[boosted_diesel]

The p1260 is just the car registering that the ignition was turned on with a non programmed key, which is probably correct as no keys are programmed and your turning the ign on to attempt programming?!
I don't think that fault code should prevent key programming.
I think your keys are the problem, whether they need batteries or whatever it is.

I know my autel key and immobiliser tool won't program a smart key without a good battery in it.

[Capnscoobing]

For the past few months I was randomly blowing the PATS fuse (36). It had blown 3 times but not in a row. This last go round, it immobilized. I checked the starter (jumped it), tested the engine fuse box, tested all the relays, inspected and tested all the fuses, tested the battery. All came back good and had no signs of damage, with the starter also turning over when jumped. I then went to the interior fuse box (were 36 is located on my car). Again I tested all the fuses and inspected them, tested the relay, inspected the box, and unplugged and inspected all the harnesses. Everything tested good and looked good there. I ran forscan with the recommended vlinker fs cable.

The scan showed p1260, and also dtc U300a-94. From there, I replaced the ignition switch (I had also noticed some play in the ignition and the key not locking into place correctly). I then attempted to restart the vehicle using both keys I had, which prior to the p1260 started the car without issue. With the ignition switch replaced it stopped coding u300a-94. It wasn't reading the keys. I attempted to just reprogram them to the vehicle using Forscan and going through the process it recommended of deleting and then adding them back to the vehicle. I went through the entire process then failed at the reprogram.

From what I've seen online, I cant program 'new' keys while the p1260 is active? Which may be why they failed to program... I haven't had a chance to pick up new batteries yet but will be doing so on Thursday. I have a locksmith coming Friday. He states he can reset the immobilizer and program the keys. If that doesn't work, i plan on ordering a replacement ignition transceiver ring.

When I get some time on Thursday I'll add the forscan info.

[Capnscoobing]

For the past few months I was randomly blowing the PATS fuse (36). It had blown 3 times but not in a row. This last go round, it immobilized. I checked the starter (jumped it), tested the engine fuse box, tested all the relays, inspected and tested all the fuses, tested the battery. All came back good and had no signs of damage, with the starter also turning over when jumped. I then went to the interior fuse box (were 36 is located on my car). Again I tested all the fuses and inspected them, tested the relay, inspected the box, and unplugged and inspected all the harnesses. Everything tested good and looked good there. I ran forscan with the recommended vlinker fs cable.

The scan showed p1260, and also dtc U300a-94. From there, I replaced the ignition switch (I had also noticed some play in the ignition and the key not locking into place correctly). I then attempted to restart the vehicle using both keys I had, which prior to the p1260 started the car without issue. With the ignition switch replaced it stopped coding u300a-94. It wasn't reading the keys. I attempted to just reprogram them to the vehicle using Forscan and going through the process it recommended of deleting and then adding them back to the vehicle. I went through the entire process then failed at the reprogram.

From what I've seen online, I cant program 'new' keys while the p1260 is active? Which may be why they failed to program... I haven't had a chance to pick up new batteries yet but will be doing so on Thursday. I have a locksmith coming Friday. He states he can reset the immobilizer and program the keys. If that doesn't work, i plan on ordering a replacement ignition transceiver ring.

When I get some time on Thursday I'll add the forscan info.

[boosted_diesel]

For the past few months I was randomly blowing the PATS fuse (36). It had blown 3 times but not in a row. This last go round, it immobilized. I checked the starter (jumped it), tested the engine fuse box, tested all the relays, inspected and tested all the fuses, tested the battery. All came back good and had no signs of damage, with the starter also turning over when jumped. I then went to the interior fuse box (were 36 is located on my car). Again I tested all the fuses and inspected them, tested the relay, inspected the box, and unplugged and inspected all the harnesses. Everything tested good and looked good there. I ran forscan with the recommended vlinker fs cable.

The scan showed p1260, and also dtc U300a-94. From there, I replaced the ignition switch (I had also noticed some play in the ignition and the key not locking into place correctly). I then attempted to restart the vehicle using both keys I had, which prior to the p1260 started the car without issue. With the ignition switch replaced it stopped coding u300a-94. It wasn't reading the keys. I attempted to just reprogram them to the vehicle using Forscan and going through the process it recommended of deleting and then adding them back to the vehicle. I went through the entire process then failed at the reprogram.

From what I've seen online, I cant program 'new' keys while the p1260 is active? Which may be why they failed to program... I haven't had a chance to pick up new batteries yet but will be doing so on Thursday. I have a locksmith coming Friday. He states he can reset the immobilizer and program the keys. If that doesn't work, i plan on ordering a replacement ignition transceiver ring.

When I get some time on Thursday I'll add the forscan info.

Ah ok, now with the full story I would have given different advice from the start.

Fuses never blow for nothing. If it blew 3 times then there's no bigger indication that whatever that fuse powers has a real problem which needs to be worked out.

It's usually but not always an internal short or short to ground.
If the fuse powers a module then the module itself or anything it's attached to could be the issue.

If the fuse is for the pats system then I would work that out first.
I would also check the ring around the ignition is actually working as it won't detect keys otherwise.

I think you'll now be heading down the right track.

I don't think the locksmith can help as I belive it's an issue with the car.