I just bought a rust-free 2005 Excursion (limited) with the 6.8L v10. I expected to have to put some work into a 20 year old vehicle and my kids already love this thing, so I think I am invested in fixing it up and keeping it on the road. Since it only came with one key, I bought FORScan and some US-made blank transponder keys and set out to delete and reprogram, after having the keys copied at the local Ace hardware. Before trying to program the keys, I read the codes and was surprised to see as many as I did, especially without a CEL (which I know works). This is where the journey begins and likely where I cracked open the lid on the can of worms.
Below I will list the codes showing at the time I tried the key programming and share some details of what know about the truck and have done.
The Codes:
U1262 - SCP (J1850) Single Ended (-) Circuit Failure
B1352 - fault in the ignition key-in circuit
P1000 - OBD readiness test not complete
C1742 - Rear sounder circuit failure
B1324 - internal control module fault
P1876 - "Transfer Case 2-Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure,"
P1832 - failure in the transfer case differential lock-up solenoid circuit
What I know/have experienced:
- The overhead lie-o-meter was not working at all, which I've started to repair.
- The auto locking hubs don't lock with vacuum, but they do lock manually and the transfer case shifts into both 4x4 High and Low. I will replace the vacuum lines, actuator, wheel bearings and hub seal soon.
- The shift lever is a bit sloppy, especially in park. In park, I have to lift up on the shifter to get the key to go come out. I will check for loose bolts at the end, and replace the shift tube or bushings if needed.
- The parking sensor "off" light is always lit. I have not yet checked to see which sensors are bad.
- All fuses and relays have been been checked and are good (fuse "legs" have a bit of a tarnished look, but no evidence of corrosion.
- I removed the interior fuse and relay block to look for corrosion and have found no evidence of corrosion on the connectors for for the harnesses, or on any fuses or relays.
- The battery indicator on the cluster came on once, but the voltage was not low at the time (14.1v while running). It hasn't come on since. Battery is newer and tests good.
- The previous owner had some crap wiring skills, and had wired in a 12v outlet under the column. I have removed this without disconnecting wires.
- There may have been a remote start installed at some time, as there are some taps on wires under/around the column.
- There is no rust around the windshield but I have not yet had it resealed.
- There is an aftermarket radio installed, which I will likely replace.
There may be more that I am just not thinking of, at the moment. I really appreciate any guidance or advice from the group on what to check or how to troubleshoot. Thanks in advance to all of you gurus who have been down this path.
I am pretty good with a multimeter, can solder, and do generally turn my own wrenches. What say you all? Where should I check first?