PATS reset

[Capnscoobing]

Ok so it was a little finicky cause I definitely need to buy longer leads or get some red and black wire for my alligator clamps... But! Results are:

Testing voltage of the plug with different grounds:
1. Nothing on plug ground.
2. 12v on steering column
3. Nothing on bolt below steering column with attached ground wire from wiring harness.

Testing Ohm with plug and different grounds (car on):
1. OL with plug ground.
2. 000 on steering column
3. OL with bolt below steering column with attached ground wire from wiring harness.

It looks like it is possibly the issue - not powering the transceiver/PATS to read the keys.

I'm thinking if I splice in a wire to the plug ground and run it to the negative terminal I can try to reprogram the keys. If that works I can try to start the vehicle and see if it clears the p1260? If my train of thought is correct I can determine if the ground is causing all of my issues or if I need to keep digging further.

What do yall think?

Again thank you everyone. Im not very knowledgeable about electrical stuff so your help and YouTube videos have gone some serious distance for me .

[boosted_diesel]

If the voltage appears to fluctuate it could be a lin bus wire your on. Double check pin numbers and wire colours.

If it is the ground then it should be constant.
Bad grounds don't blow fuses.

You should be able to use the ground to light a small test lamp.
If the transceiver isn't grounded it won't work.

Be sure it is the ground, once you are just find the issue and repair it. Then try to program the keys again.

[Capnscoobing]

The order is 4-3-2-1, with me testing 2 as ground and 1 as VPWR right?

I'm a little confused with all of this. I was using metal inside the steering column as ground and it was showing the 12v. But... I got curious. With the multimeter and leaving ground in the plug and touching red lead to steering column it shows 12v. When using ground and red lead with pin 4 it shows 12v. I'm not experienced with the multimeter and electrical work so I don't know if this actually means something?

There is a grounded bolt under the steering column but when I go pin 1 and ground to that bolt it doesn't complete the circuit and remains OL. I need to pick up longer wire to try to ground to passenger side (thought I had some but don't).

[Joh150413]

Connector view.

[tractmec]

The order is 4-3-2-1, with me testing 2 as ground and 1 as VPWR right?

I'm a little confused with all of this. I was using metal inside the steering column as ground and it was showing the 12v. But... I got curious. With the multimeter and leaving ground in the plug and touching red lead to steering column it shows 12v. When using ground and red lead with pin 4 it shows 12v. I'm not experienced with the multimeter and electrical work so I don't know if this actually means something?

There is a grounded bolt under the steering column but when I go pin 1 and ground to that bolt it doesn't complete the circuit and remains OL. I need to pick up longer wire to try to ground to passenger side (thought I had some but don't).

Meter Set in DC Volts, 20 volt or higher range. Red lead on the No. 1 pin, Black lead on any good ground(Ground or Negative connection is Common to the frame and body and to Battery Negative connection), Ignition in run, should show Battery or Vpower voltage (12.5 volts fully charged battery)! Means no problem with Battery voltage to the Transceiver!

Meter In DC Volts, ignition in run, Red Lead on Pin 1 Black lead on Pin 2 should show the same reading! If it does not show Vpower voltage you have found the problem as that would mean the Transceiver is not getting powered(No ground or Negative connection)!

Meter in DC Volts, Red lead on pin 2 and black lead on any good ground(Should not need to connect to ground G201 Behind Glove box (Joh Connector image above and my connector face image in the Mustang wiring diagram Manual show it as circuit G116 The wiring Diagram shows the ground point as G201 in Fire wall behind the Glove box) , Key on and Key off, should show 0 volts or OL, If it shows any voltage, either key position, pin 2 is shorted to Vpower or Vbattery(Possible since you have reported blowing fuse 36 and an inspection of main harness for damage along dash and to Instrument cluster will be required)!

Do not do the next test if the above test shows any voltage! Meter can be damaged. Inspect for harness Damage and repair the shorted circuit first!

Meter in Continuity mode(Diode symbol depending on meter) or lowest Resistance setting, Key in Off. Red lead on pin 2 and black lead on any good ground should show zero Resistance or less than five ohms!
If not then again this is the PATS problem! Negative or ground circuit will need to be repaired!

If problems are found from above and repaired and the keys will now program the following would not need to be performed!

Pins 3 and 4 are Transponder Send and Receive(Violet Grey and Yellow Orange wire respectively) and there is no voltage check for them!
To check them for continuity, Shorts to Ground or To Battery or Vpower, involves disconnecting the respective connector at the Instrument cluster (Connector C220) finding the Transceiver pins at the cluster connector (Pins 22 and 23) and continuity or shorted to voltage or to ground testing the circuit end to end (Transceiver to Instrument cluster)(0 to less then 5 ohms from the pin 3 and 4 to the their corresponding pins 22 and 23 in the Instrument cluster connector (Violet Grey and Yellow Orange wires) and for no connection to ground and no voltage reading while disconnected(no connection to transceiver pin 1 (with Key in run or in Off) Any voltage reading, 0 resistance Continuity reading to ground or OL open circuit End to End!

Hope that helps with the confusion or maybe just makes more confusion?

[Capnscoobing]

Meter Set in DC Volts, 20 volt or higher range. Red lead on the No. 1 pin, Black lead on any good ground(Ground or Negative connection is Common to the frame and body and to Battery Negative connection), Ignition in run, should show Battery or Vpower voltage (12.5 volts fully charged battery)! Means no problem with Battery voltage to the Transceiver!

No voltage shown

Meter In DC Volts, ignition in run, Red Lead on Pin 1 Black lead on Pin 2 should show the same reading! If it does not show Vpower voltage you have found the problem as that would mean the Transceiver is not getting powered(No ground or Negative connection)!

No voltage shown

Meter in DC Volts, Red lead on pin 2 and black lead on any good ground(Should not need to connect to ground G201 Behind Glove box (Joh Connector image above and my connector face image in the Mustang wiring diagram Manual show it as circuit G116 The wiring Diagram shows the ground point as G201 in Fire wall behind the Glove box) , Key on and Key off, should show 0 volts or OL, If it shows any voltage, either key position, pin 2 is shorted to Vpower or Vbattery(Possible since you have reported blowing fuse 36 and an inspection of main harness for damage along dash and to Instrument cluster will be required)!

I performed this test with a Kobalt DT-926 on the continuity setting. It read .010 then dropped, stopping at .003. I'm not sure what this means?

Meter in Continuity mode(Diode symbol depending on meter) or lowest Resistance setting, Key in Off. Red lead on pin 2 and black lead on any good ground should show zero Resistance or less than five ohms!
If not then again this is the PATS problem! Negative or ground circuit will need to be repaired!

This ended with .000

If I'm understanding this correctly, this means there is an issue with the transceiver receiving power? I think the power flows through the IPC connection, but the IPC is getting power. I did have the (DTC) U0300-94 stored in the computer and everything else seems to be powering properly from what I can tell and read from the error codes. I figure this all sums up to somewhere between the IPC and the transceiver the connection for power is broken.

Is there a nearby wire I could splice in to for power to avoid pulling apart the dash and harness?

[tractmec]

Meter Set in DC Volts, 20 volt or higher range. Red lead on the No. 1 pin, Black lead on any good ground(Ground or Negative connection is Common to the frame and body and to Battery Negative connection), Ignition in run, should show Battery or Vpower voltage (12.5 volts fully charged battery)! Means no problem with Battery voltage to the Transceiver!

No voltage shown

Meter In DC Volts, ignition in run, Red Lead on Pin 1 Black lead on Pin 2 should show the same reading! If it does not show Vpower voltage you have found the problem as that would mean the Transceiver is not getting powered(No ground or Negative connection)!

No voltage shown

Meter in DC Volts, Red lead on pin 2 and black lead on any good ground(Should not need to connect to ground G201 Behind Glove box (Joh Connector image above and my connector face image in the Mustang wiring diagram Manual show it as circuit G116 The wiring Diagram shows the ground point as G201 in Fire wall behind the Glove box) , Key on and Key off, should show 0 volts or OL, If it shows any voltage, either key position, pin 2 is shorted to Vpower or Vbattery(Possible since you have reported blowing fuse 36 and an inspection of main harness for damage along dash and to Instrument cluster will be required)!

I performed this test with a Kobalt DT-926 on the continuity setting. It read .010 then dropped, stopping at .003. I'm not sure what this means?

Meter in Continuity mode(Diode symbol depending on meter) or lowest Resistance setting, Key in Off. Red lead on pin 2 and black lead on any good ground should show zero Resistance or less than five ohms!
If not then again this is the PATS problem! Negative or ground circuit will need to be repaired!

This ended with .000

If I'm understanding this correctly, this means there is an issue with the transceiver receiving power? I think the power flows through the IPC connection, but the IPC is getting power. I did have the (DTC) U0300-94 stored in the computer and everything else seems to be powering properly from what I can tell and read from the error codes. I figure this all sums up to somewhere between the IPC and the transceiver the connection for power is broken.

Is there a nearby wire I could splice in to for power to avoid pulling apart the dash and harness?

If you did the test exactly as I related(PATS transceiver connector disconnected, Ignition on/run, Meter positive on pin 1 and Meter negative on ground or pin 2) and Fuse 36 is intact, the voltage reading should be the same as the voltage reading across the Battery!
The + Power does not come from the IPC but is + powered by a common Blue/Brown wire and fuse 36!

The IPC is + powered by the same fuse number 36 and is spliced(Splice 236 in the Harness, according to the PATS diagram) off of the same Blue/Brown wire! If the IPC is fully functional and there is no voltage at PATS transceiver Pin 1 with the above test parameters set then the Blue/Brown wire will need to be traced to find out where it is broken between splice 236 and the PATS transceiver.
If IPC is fully functional with the Ignition in Run, are you reading Vpower Voltage(Battery Voltage with the Key in run) at IPC connecter 220 pin 3 Blue/Brown Wire?

At any rate, if the above is true, you probably just found the reason for none of your PATS keys working and/or being programmable as it appears the PATS transceiver is not being powered so that will have to be resolved first!
Probably easier to cut the PATS wire at the transceiver, splice a parallel wire from the PATS connector and splicing into the Blue/Brown wire at the IPC connector and at the PATS Transceiver as that would be the right way to do this keeping the circuit as engineered and properly wired!

You could probably Cut the PATS power wire at the Transceiver and splice into any circuit fed by the Ignition run circuit and it would probably work, assuming there is no ground or short in the Transceiver(Originally Reported Fuse 36 blowing frequently?), but remember there is a reason fuse 36 that feeds both the IPC run Circuit and the PATS transceiver, is only five amps so keep that in mind when you go looking to engineer that circuit from a different Positive feed!

Just suggestions from your description!

[Capnscoobing]

Would you have a diagram of splice 236 and ipc connector 220? I will go with your recommendation to trace the harness and splice in at the original layout

[tractmec]

Would you have a diagram of splice 236 and ipc connector 220? I will go with your recommendation to trace the harness and splice in at the original layout

Splice 236 is buried in the main Dash harness(Large Harness bundle) just to the right of(Sitting in seat) where the harness connecting to the steering column and PATS transceiver joins the main harness bundle, which runs along the bottom of the dash panel and would mean cutting into that big bundle to find it! The reason I suggested running another circuit to the IPC connector! That would be easier than hacking into the main Dash harness!

Accessing IPC connector 220 will require disassembling the dash panels in front of the steering wheel!

For Service manuals(Diassembly an Reassembly and Diagnostic pin Point tests) and Wiring Diagrams, Connector views and splice and ground locations, Have a look here: https://charm.li/Ford/

[Capnscoobing]

Gentlemen,

I had given up for the season as the weather took a turn for the worse, instead choosing to cover my car and call it quits. As the weather has turned nice, I am, once again, back at it. As it stands, I did separate at splice 220 and test the wiring to the transceiver ring and to the harness end, both separated wires showing continuity.

I continued digging around and doing web sleuthing to find more information and came across some possible relevant information? It would appear that there's a somewhat recurring issue people have with water damaging the SJB from the a-pillar? I read on some other forums that water from the top of the vehicle and windshield runs down the cowl in between the firewall where there is a rubber drainage piece on the driver's side and on passenger side. Apparently, if it backs up too much on the passenger's side, it can flood the firewall area and drain out the the HVAC system on the interior, coming out just above the SJB, damaging/shorting it... I have not yet uncovered the car and begun digging into this.

Also, does anyone know if there should be continuity from fuse 36 to any specific pin on the SJB that would go to the transceiver ring? I found some diagrams showing that fuse 36 feeds to pin 11 (going to the transceiver ring) but when I check fuse 36 to pin 11 with a multimeter it is showing OL... but when I test fuse 36 to pin 12 it shows continuity. I'm not sure that I found the correct pin.