Flashing Modules - External charger setup

[Ecmbuster]

I had a 55A power supply and the one mentioned is still usable in your case.
It is far more profound than a "5A battery maintainer".
The AMP clamp mentioned is a good tool to measure available current and the actual current draw.
Use this attachment as a guide.

FORScan Programming Voltage.pdf

(18.36 KiB) Downloaded 126 times

If the measured amperage and consuming amperage is suspect, attach another battery to the 55A power supply and then both parallel batteries will provide sufficient power for programming.
Make sure both batteries are fully charged first

[spender2611]

@spender2611

"Off topic?"

"go back to school?"

"get some social skills?"

"give simple and short answers?"

Let's see if "Flashing Modules - External charger setup" is off topic!

You and the readers just got an education and when it comes to the advancement and theory of current technology, you should be grateful.
It's obvious you do not like being corrected.

Then again, those resulting statements were expected as you have the need to make it pubic and about yourself, in an "attempt" to scrutinize "FACT BASED" information.

//
@ ECMBuster
Off Topic means that my own comment has nothing to do with the acutal question and I didnt write you should go back to school. I think you didnt read it carefully. I like being corrected and I am also greatful for learning new things, I dont like to be treatet like a stupid little kid. Think about it!
//

I am thankful that i have learned from you that a power supply is the right choice. Actually I am trying to find one here in Europe. Not that easy.. and I am still looking for the correct tool. I never doubted the words you said, just the way youre presenting your knowlege is not my cup of tea.

[KrstGor]

To anyone looking forward to update firmware, I have a simple two-word message:

FORGET FORSCAN

The reason I’m saying this is less to do with software itself and more to do with hardware.

Understand this: there is a reason why a professional grade J2534 pass-thru adapter costs north of $1,500. So, while Forscan potentially can get the right files to perform the module fw flash, the cheap OBD adapters like OBDLink or vLinker were not designed for long programing sessions that can take 8+ hours for certain hardware. These tools are great choice for a “split of a second operation” to turn on your “bambi mode” or “Scandinavian lights” or your auto door-lock and similar… and that’s about it.

To update fw, you need professional tools. That is, you need professional tools if you want to avoid the risk of bricking your module(s).

And so, if you are prepared to invest that kind of money to buy professional tools, then obtaining a 3-day license to use Ford’s own FJDS/FDRS becomes peanuts, as the biggest expense is the J2534 and the Power Supply (not a charger!). Digression here: for programming, you need stable (fix) voltage and fluctuating amperage. That’s what PS does. The charger does the exact opposite: fixed amperage and changing voltage, which is the biggest risk factor to brick the module.

To program a Ford vehicle, you’ll need a device that outputs at least 25Amps, so smth. like C-TEK PRO25S is what you’re looking for at a bare minimum. A better/safer option would be a device that outputs 50Amps. The Noco Genius 50Pro does that. It’s an $800 device. On top of that the cheapest J2534 that’ll do for Ford would be the Mongoose Plus, another $500+ or so. If you’re in Europe, add customs, VAT and shipping costs on top of these devices, so it’s nearly €2,000.

Now, assume you gonna go ahead and program the vehicle. Ideally, you want to be indoors (imagine it starts raining while you’re doing a 12h session). Not everyone has an indoors facility to work on their car. So, you need to be at least some place that has some sot of cover in case the elements turn against you. You need to make sure you have a stable AC current. You will need to hook up your laptop, your newly purchased PS to an AC current socket, without running the risk of power outage (it’s rare, but it can happen). Last, but not least you need a super-stable fast, broad-band internet connection (I'd avoid wi-fi at all costs), meaning you also need to be able to draw a RJ45 ethernet cable (preferably Cat 6) and plug it into your laptop.

Bottom-line: updating fw is not for the faint of heart. It’s the most advanced work you can do on a car, it requires a considerable investment in tools and equipment you’re not likely to use ever again, unless you do this for a living. Obviously, that’s hardly unlikely, as in that case you wouldn’t be asking these Qs here.

Just my humble $0.02c. Good luck.

[Jonhy7]

To anyone looking forward to update firmware, I have a simple two-word message:

FORGET FORSCAN

The reason I’m saying this is less to do with software itself and more to do with hardware.

Understand this: there is a reason why a professional grade J2534 pass-thru adapter costs north of $1,500. So, while Forscan potentially can get the right files to perform the module fw flash, the cheap OBD adapters like OBDLink or vLinker were not designed for long programing sessions that can take 8+ hours for certain hardware. These tools are great choice for a “split of a second operation” to turn on your “bambi mode” or “Scandinavian lights” or your auto door-lock and similar… and that’s about it.

To update fw, you need professional tools. That is, you need professional tools if you want to avoid the risk of bricking your module(s).

And so, if you are prepared to invest that kind of money to buy professional tools, then obtaining a 3-day license to use Ford’s own FJDS/FDRS becomes peanuts, as the biggest expense is the J2534 and the Power Supply (not a charger!). Digression here: for programming, you need stable (fix) voltage and fluctuating amperage. That’s what PS does. The charger does the exact opposite: fixed amperage and changing voltage, which is the biggest risk factor to brick the module.

To program a Ford vehicle, you’ll need a device that outputs at least 25Amps, so smth. like C-TEK PRO25S is what you’re looking for at a bare minimum. A better/safer option would be a device that outputs 50Amps. The Noco Genius 50Pro does that. It’s an $800 device. On top of that the cheapest J2534 that’ll do for Ford would be the Mongoose Plus, another $500+ or so. If you’re in Europe, add customs, VAT and shipping costs on top of these devices, so it’s nearly €2,000.

Now, assume you gonna go ahead and program the vehicle. Ideally, you want to be indoors (imagine it starts raining while you’re doing a 12h session). Not everyone has an indoors facility to work on their car. So, you need to be at least some place that has some sot of cover in case the elements turn against you. You need to make sure you have a stable AC current. You will need to hook up your laptop, your newly purchased PS to an AC current socket, without running the risk of power outage (it’s rare, but it can happen). Last, but not least you need a super-stable fast, broad-band internet connection (I'd avoid wi-fi at all costs), meaning you also need to be able to draw a RJ45 ethernet cable (preferably Cat 6) and plug it into your laptop.

Bottom-line: updating fw is not for the faint of heart. It’s the most advanced work you can do on a car, it requires a considerable investment in tools and equipment you’re not likely to use ever again, unless you do this for a living. Obviously, that’s hardly unlikely, as in that case you wouldn’t be asking these Qs here.

Just my humble $0.02c. Good luck.

[KrstGor]

To anyone looking forward to update firmware, I have a simple two-word message:

FORGET FORSCAN

The reason I’m saying this is less to do with software itself and more to do with hardware.

Understand this: there is a reason why a professional grade J2534 pass-thru adapter costs north of $1,500. So, while Forscan potentially can get the right files to perform the module fw flash, the cheap OBD adapters like OBDLink or vLinker were not designed for long programing sessions that can take 8+ hours for certain hardware. These tools are great choice for a “split of a second operation” to turn on your “bambi mode” or “Scandinavian lights” or your auto door-lock and similar… and that’s about it.

To update fw, you need professional tools. That is, you need professional tools if you want to avoid the risk of bricking your module(s).

And so, if you are prepared to invest that kind of money to buy professional tools, then obtaining a 3-day license to use Ford’s own FJDS/FDRS becomes peanuts, as the biggest expense is the J2534 and the Power Supply (not a charger!). Digression here: for programming, you need stable (fix) voltage and fluctuating amperage. That’s what PS does. The charger does the exact opposite: fixed amperage and changing voltage, which is the biggest risk factor to brick the module.

To program a Ford vehicle, you’ll need a device that outputs at least 25Amps, so smth. like C-TEK PRO25S is what you’re looking for at a bare minimum. A better/safer option would be a device that outputs 50Amps. The Noco Genius 50Pro does that. It’s an $800 device. On top of that the cheapest J2534 that’ll do for Ford would be the Mongoose Plus, another $500+ or so. If you’re in Europe, add customs, VAT and shipping costs on top of these devices, so it’s nearly €2,000.

Now, assume you gonna go ahead and program the vehicle. Ideally, you want to be indoors (imagine it starts raining while you’re doing a 12h session). Not everyone has an indoors facility to work on their car. So, you need to be at least some place that has some sot of cover in case the elements turn against you. You need to make sure you have a stable AC current. You will need to hook up your laptop, your newly purchased PS to an AC current socket, without running the risk of power outage (it’s rare, but it can happen). Last, but not least you need a super-stable fast, broad-band internet connection (I'd avoid wi-fi at all costs), meaning you also need to be able to draw a RJ45 ethernet cable (preferably Cat 6) and plug it into your laptop.

Bottom-line: updating fw is not for the faint of heart. It’s the most advanced work you can do on a car, it requires a considerable investment in tools and equipment you’re not likely to use ever again, unless you do this for a living. Obviously, that’s hardly unlikely, as in that case you wouldn’t be asking these Qs here.

Just my humble $0.02c. Good luck.

Johny7, sorry if that came as a shock. It's what it is...

BTW, the Ford's license to use their network resources via FJDS/FDRS is just $50 for 3 days.

This is why I'd go that route instead of Forscan. I mean if I'm spending 2K on necessary equipment, I can spare an extra 50 bucks for risk-free programming.

Again, just my humble $0.02c.

[Ecmbuster]

@ KrstGor

You nailed it and a have a "full pager" to post but thought - what's the point.
I should show you may insane setup.

Well done.

[grudd61]

An overwhelmingly HUGE percentage of programing failures are due to operator error from "Sun-up to Sun-down" in nature. Blaming FORscan software as being inferior to IDS, FDRS, etc...is way, way down the list. If one were to trace every incident of programming failure in this forum, back to it's origin, Operator error/incompetence would be the cause in 99% of them. People seem to always "bite off more than they can chew" me, included. I haven't seen any examples of the 2 FORscan recommended adapters failing due to "long-run" sessions, other than operator error #1 : Not providing proper power supply output for battery. Perhaps the adapters are "overheating" or what?

I wonder if any programming sessions using IDS, FDRS, etc...have been screwed up by inept technicians at the "Dealerships"? Perhaps they blame their adapters or software also.

[Ecmbuster]

IDS, FDRS, FJDS do not fail, ever. It is the operator in every case.

FORScan has never failed and tested side by side with a J2534-2 device and the VCM III.

The most common failure has always been power supply / battery issues with a complete lack of basic electrical knowledge. These fools can not read or understand / contemplate basic instructions and what steps must be taken to complete a programming task.
Imagine multiple programming tasks with CAN-FD.

Just wait till ADAS systems are installed / fully implemented in all new models with LAN connections. - Now what!

Very soon, secure gateways will be adapted and it will be dealer tools with outside intervention including added subscriptions to complete tasks.

[botus]

decent stable power supply is essential, the latest JLR's need 120 amp power supply to flash the car, but some of the ideas suggesting a std J2534 will cure all things I think is pushing the boundaries of common sense

DOIP is the new standard and a lot of the fun is all about the secret proprietary fun the manus deliberately build into their multiplexer VCIs and they still keep throwing extras in there to trip us up. BMW's ICOM is up to v3. And the lengthy flashing idea is mostly OLD obsolete kit. My BMW bike flashes all 13 modules in 20 minutes (engine, suspension, brakes, alarm, radio, headlamps, stability, everything)

Then certainly on my Merc the next bit is the configuration post flashing of the module - its supposed to be a secret online handshake and comms to the factory, who then send the data on how the module is to be configured before the job is complete... SCN (software numerical calibration)

..what isn't coming over from the few bits I read on this forum - is just how much extras Ford might be adding in their software... certainly on Mercs they add time and or usage switches to disable modules after a while and a reflash can get it back to std

And then ONLY BMW do the job right flashing the entire vehicle is one approved set up .... my 2019 bike has been done 4 times and various module get updated frequently

we have moved from competent, robust, reliable software to maybe this is better in a constant update and guess attitude...

did any one read the UK article on car security where the wifi code for the ford build factory is stored in the car's headunit !!!!