How to check blank PATS key

[f-wolf]

2005 Ford Mustang Ignition Transponder Chip Key Programming Instructions

https://www.programautokeys.com/classif ... -7782.aspx

Can I program a third key myself if I have two working keys?
Yes, once you have had the new key cut by a Locksmith use the following instructions.

1. Insert an existing working key into the ignition cylinder.

2. Turn the ignition cylinder to ON (RUN) and back to OFF.

3. Remove the existing working key and, within five seconds, insert a second working key and turn it to ON (RUN) then back OFF.

4. Remove second working key and insert the new key before ten seconds have elapsed and turn it to ON (RUN). Leave it on for one second and turn back to OFF.

5. The security light will light up for three seconds to indicate that the new key has been successfully programmed.

If you have lost all keys for this vehicle you will need to find a locksmith to come to your vehicle to originate a new ignition key


Go to ProgramYourRemote.com for key fob programming instructions.


http://www.programyourremote.com/classi ... -5417.aspx

[fearthewopr]

I am new to forscan. I just bought a used 2017 Expedition EL. It came with one keyfob. I bought one that is supposed to be matching the same FCC ID and chipset.

I tried these instruction to check it, but I get the following:

Can anyone help?

Code: B10D7 - PATS Key

Additional Fault Symptom:
- No Signal

Module: Remote Function Actuator

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

DTC B10D7:31 sets during On-demand Self-test if 2 programmed Intelligent Access (IA) keys are not detected inside the vehicle. If 2 programmed Intelligent Access (IA) keys are not present inside the vehicle, disregard this DTC.

[fearthewopr]

I was able to run the RFA PATS Programming and add both of the Amazon purchased fobs successfully!

[logimen]

Hi,

I bought Mazda6 2.5L 2008. I got two key fobs but only one is working. With it I can open, close and start engine. Second one is not detected by the car.
Forscan shows:

Code: B10D7 - PATS Key
Additional Fault Symptom (:94):
-Unexpected Operation Status (-0A):
- DTC Present at Time of Request Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Remote Keyless Entry

How can I resolve this problem ?

EDIT:
I got working second key fob. It was not related to this DTC.

[bushmechanic]

Please help, I have a problem where FORScan reports that two keys have been successfully programmed but a DTC B10D7:51-08 - unknown key - is triggered when either is used to try and start the vehicle.

My vehicle is a 2007 Ford Transit 2.4l 140PS AU model van in which I have just replaced the engine with a used, like-for-like, H9FB. Both the PCM and BCMii modules are the original ones however the fuel pump, injectors and most of the engine peripheral's are those that came with the new engine.

Keys wise, prior to me taking the old engine out but while it was still inoperative, I had them stolen. I replaced them with two bought from a recommended eBay seller (not OEM but not cheap ones) and used FORScan to program to the vehicle after erasing the old ones. This went smoothly for both keys, FORScan reported that programming was successful and the key counter advanced to show that two keys were programmed. I note that the workshop manual advises that the remote programming is carried out at the same time as key programming and indeed that was the case with both keys being able to successfully lock and unlock the vehicle. Moreover, when each key was placed in the ignition and turned to the "On" position, the immobiliser LED stopped flashing indicating a successful read of a known key. As the old engine was inoperative, I was unable to use them to start it though.

With the new engine, all the above still holds somewhat true. While the immobiliser LED stops flashing when the key is turned to the "On" position the van won't start. Once the key is turned to the "Start" position though, the immobiliser LED does start rapidly flashing indicating an unknown key has been used.

Despite the above, FORScan still reports that two keys have been successfully programmed.

Additionally, FORScan reports the following DTC's:

=PCM DTC U0426:00-28===
Code: U0426 - Invalid Data Received From Vehicle Immobilizer Control Module

Status (-28):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Freeze Frame #1:
-EVENT_TIME: 32245 s - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 307872 km - Total Distance
-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 12.0 V - Control Module Voltage
===END PCM DTC U0426:00-28===

===PCM DTC U0140:00-2F===
Code: U0140 - Lost Communication With Body Control Module

Status (-2F):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

===BCMii DTC U0100:00-08===
Code: U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A

Status (-08):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Body Control Module

===END BCMii DTC U0100:00-08===

===BCMii DTC B10D7:51-08===
Code: B10D7 - PATS Key

Additional Fault Symptom (:51):
- Not Programmed

Status (-08):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Body Control Module

===END BCMii DTC B10D7:51-08===

===BCMii DTC B10D8:00-48===
Code: B10D8 - PATS Key Less Than Minimum Programmed

Status (-48):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
- Test not complete

Module: Body Control Module

===END BCMii DTC B10D8:00-48===

===IPC DTC U0140:87-28===
Code: U0140 - Lost Communication With Body Control Module

Additional Fault Symptom (:87):
- Missing Message

Status (-28):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Panel Control Module

===END IPC DTC U0140:87-28===

In addition to the scanned DTC's, the flash-code from the immobiliser LED is 15 which according to the Ford workshop manual could mean "The ignition key being used does not match one of those stored in the CJB."

Erasing and reprogramming both keys has not changed any of the above, they are both reported as being successfully programmed by FORScan, the LED indicator goes out when they're inserted in the ignition, but neither will start the vehicle.

From what I understand, this model Transit uses a distributed approach to PATS with data being held and shared across multiple modules. Key programming and subsequent transponder reading is carried out in the BCMii module - located in the GEM. When the BCMii successfully reads a key transponder and determines it's a known key, it then communicates that key code with the PCM. The PCM then carries out it's own comparison to the keys it knows about and if all is good enables the engine to start. The IPC module carries a backup copy of the whole configuration.

It seems to me that when the old keys were erased and the new ones programmed by the BCM, that information was not passed to the PCM module which has retained and is still using the codes associated with the old keys. Is this possible?

What checks can I carry out to find out if that's the case and more importantly, what can I do to get both modules on the same page, so to speak? It seems unlikely to be a case of faulty keys otherwise how would FORScan have been able to successfully program them to begin with and why would the immobiliser LED go out?

What have I missed?

I see in the Configuration and Programming menu under the BCMii Central Configuration (Main) section there is an option to write the BCMii data to the ECU. I haven't carried out that procedure but is that what needs to be done? I haven't been able to find any literature on this at all so if someone has experience in this area or better knowledge than I do, I would be grateful for any assistance.

[bushmechanic]

Just posting a quick update on how I resolved this in case it's useful for anyone else with a similar problem.

TLDR: The key fobs were defective. I bought new ones from a different manufacturer and they worked.

After wasting way too much time trawling all the various forums, I finally gave up on finding anyone who knew what they were talking about and decided to risk buying another key fob but from a different manufacturer. It worked. Both the immobiliser and the remote central locking coded in properly this time, whereas with the first set, while Forscan reported the immobiliser had coded in correctly, that wasn't the case and the van wouldn't start. The second key fob I bought from the same manufacturer also coded in correctly and just as easily.

Surprisingly, the new key fobs were only $45 AUD each which was substantially cheaper than the first two I bought. To be honest, this almost put me off buying them and was a good lesson that price doesn't always equal quality. Nice to find there are still manufacturers making quality products that perform as well as they're described and who don't price-gouge for them either.

Autokey Tec Co.Ltd is the manufacturer. From what I could find out they're a 10 year old Chinese company that as well as making OEM keys and security products for other car manufacturers, supplies aftermarket keys, etc to locksmiths. That's what they say at any rate but as nothing in their advertising turned out to be bullshit it's possible they may actually be legit after all. Their keys work at any rate, which for us, I guess, is really all that matters. You'll find links to them below.

Website: w w w . a u t o k e y s . u s
AliExpress Store: h t t p s : / / w a k f l m s . a l i e x p r e s s . c o m / s t o r e / 5 0 0 7 2 3 9
VM Transit Fob Product Page: h t t p s : / / w w w . a l i e x p r e s s . c o m / i t e m / 1 0 0 5 0 0 6 0 8 6 2 1 3 8 6 0 . h t m l

Just to be crystal clear, I'm not affiliated with these guys in anyway. I have no skin in the game and I'm only sharing these links in the hope it helps someone out.

[tim0574]

-Go to final edit at end of post for surprise start with only one key programmed-

I'm at a standstill with my 2011 Escape Hybrid at the moment. Mulling whether to buy yet another key or check with a locksmith.

Vehicle came with one 1 key oddly with a Mazda logo on it instead of Ford. Previously was just a guard vehicle wandering around a big corporate business. Bought a cheapy button key fob intending to add it but only tried recently. Didn't take so now have a recased oem key fob to try. The numbers all seem to match for compatibility. Circuit board is legit. The previous cheapy barely had any electronics. Trying to program the cheapy got the vehicle non functional since it only showed one key (original) after the procedure. Same result with the recased key. I've put the fobs near a radio to hear their interference when I push the unlock/lock buttons. But that doesn't tell me if the chip in the recased oem key is also functional.

I did the key test and got the right dtc code before I started all this. The original key is stamped HA. I see less talk of that stamping but I believe it's 80bit though there's always conflicting info to find. I bought the recased key base off the IC number on my original 850K-D6000022. Another number inside by the original fob battery is 6u5t-191316-AE. Super confusing as even with the same FCC or IC number, multiple part numbers/prices show up on key sites that aren't the 6u5t one. They seem the same, are 80 bit, have the 63 chip but are priced very differently even on the same site. Did I just buy badly again?

I've only now started to notice the immobilizer behavior for each key tried. I do have a plain key for door lock only use. This of course makes my immobilizer light blink fast if I turn the ignition as there is no chip. I got the same behavior from the original cheapy fob I tried but also the recased oem fob. When I use the original I get the 21 blink code for less than 2 keys since I can only get the original to accept.

My particular pats procedure (after the timed waiting) lists a 10 second turn off time for the first step which I don't see in screenshots or other videos. But I've tried it that way and short off time with no go. When I remove original and put in the recased oem key, the immobilizer goes into fast blink before I close out the programming procedure. If I try to start with the recased oem key first during pats, the blinking starts right away when programming begins.

I've tried to wipe the original key from pats by starting with the recase fob and just ending the procedure early. It will show zero at first but my original key will still interact ok with the immobilizer light by being recognized. Still no start of course. But I don't understand why the original key wasn't wiped. If I restart forscan, the key count is now 1 though it should be zero. I can't seem to rid the original and/or the pats procedure just isn't going through right on my vehicle. I did see somebody have issues as they had a fleet police vehicle where one key worked on many vehicles. I don't think I have that issue but being a former corporate owner vehicle, it's a thought.

I don't get any additional dialog boxes during the pats procedure after it tells me to go ahead with the timed steps and programming. Maybe this just varies by vehicle or forscan version.

The only success I've had is wiping the other original key programmed that I never had in the first place.

Edit: As I've learned a bit more exactly how things work I decided to test the fobs transponders by using my chipless key to turn the ignition and hold them near the coil. My original works and gives me the usual steady immobilizer light. The recased fob gets no result. Either it's dead or perhaps they sent me a 40 bit for an 80 bit setup. Also got the 13 flash code for the recased fob which is no transponder read. Unless a 40 bit key looks like nothing to my pats, the key transponder is bad. There is a blink fault for a partial code. I wonder if a 40 bit would set that off or if its just for an incomplete send.

Edit 2: It started with only 1 transponder programmed! With a new unprogrammed buttonless transponder key. How? I got a transponder key overnight from Amazon "guaranteed to work". I got one without all the button and door unlocking nonsense on the key. It was delivered at 5:00 a.m. so I couldn't get it cut for a few hours so I decided to try and sandwich it up against a normal metal key I have just to unlock my doors. I sandwiched it up against it to then hopefully get a theft code blink that at least recognized a transponder but unprogrammed. The first two times it just gave me code 13 which means no transponder was found during the key turning. This was very disappointing and had me thinking now three times? What voodoo is wrong with this vehicle? I move the transponder key to the other side of the metal key and when I turned it the security light went out! I was puzzled. I then did it again and turned it to the run position and the vehicle started! Guaranteed to work is right. I have no idea how this is possible. Even if it was some sort of hack trick I wouldn't think that would work since there still is only one key programmed in my pats. I'm going to do a fresh post to detail this again & discuss.

Final edit: I finally got a chance to pull up forscan and it shows 2 keys so this Amazon key auto programmed itself. That's a neat trick.

[tim0574]

Discovery after above post:

YOU CAN TEST A POTENTIAL FOB BEFORE CUTTING IT
Also:
YOU'VE WIPED YOUR ORIGINAL KEYS & NOW CANNOT START VEHICLE BECAUSE ONLY ONE VALID KEY PROGRAMMED

This is helpful if seller refuses return with cut key after they scammed you. My original fob I got from ebay only had electronics to operate locks/alarm. There was no transponder chip in it. They are separate functions. The transponder is passive and will work even if the battery is out of the fob as the battery isn't for that. That's why on newer vehicles if the battery in the fob is dead you can put the fob in a special nook or near the start button to get the vehicle started. If the battery is dead, the auto start and proximity locks are the functions unavailable. Because of this I then bought a recased OEM fob. What I received was legit but the transponder was dead. The replacement they sent was good. I was able to test it before cutting it.

Anyway instead of cutting the key on the fob, get a plain metal key cut. My local hardware store charges a dollar or two. I had one cut for door use and my door/ignition keys are the same.

You don't have to have Forscan running or look for the 16xx codes. The security light will flash error codes after a minute or so. It took me a long while to discover this. My vehicle is from the 40/80bit PATS era.

Use the metal key you had cut for the ignition and sandwich the body of the fob against it perpendicular. You basically have a right angle of keys. One cut metal in the ignition and one uncut fob pointing up or down. The transponder chip just needs to be near the sensor/antenna ring around the ignition to work.

Turn to the ON (not run) position and wait out the fast blinking for a minute. It'll stop and start slow blinking a code. If you get 13, repeat the process with the fob on the other side of the cut key. 13 is no transponder read. I received this at first but when I moved the fob to the bottom of the key and tried again I got a different error 15 which means transponder seen but not programmed.

If you get 15 you can then cut the key and successfully program via Forscan.

If you are in the boat I was in and wiped the originals programmed and now have a non starting vehicle because of only owning one key/fob and the other being a dud/scam/fake there's another workaround. You again need a cut metal key but you could borrow someone's fob from a compatible bit era to do the test from above but since the vehicle is still waiting for a 2nd transponder to be used, the borrowed will program. Mine will do so even without Forscan running. The vehicle is simply waiting for two transponder to be used near the ignition until the programmed key count is 2. This will at least make your vehicle startable again with your original key/fob until you can get a cheap legitimate transponder key without paying hundreds of dollars to rescue you or fix your situation.

I bought a buttonless 80 bit key off Amazon and used the Prime trial to get it delivered within 12 hours. It worked perfectly and I had a running vehicle again.

edit: pic links added to make extra easy and clear

[tractmec]

tim0574 » Fri Apr 04, 2025 12:18 pm Wrote:

"but you could borrow someone's fob from a compatible bit era to do the test from above but since the vehicle is still waiting for a 2nd transponder to be used, the borrowed will program. Mine will do so even with Forscan running. The vehicle is simply waiting for two transponder to be used near the ignition until the programmed key count is 2. This will at least make your vehicle startable again with your original key/fob until you can get a cheap legitimate transponder key without paying hundreds of dollars to rescue you or fix your situation"

There is a caution with borrowing a Key from someone with a working key! Be aware that the key you borrow will not be able to start the lenders car after you have programmed it to your own!

The key transponder signature is not only programmed into the PATS module memory(BCM, IPC, PCM or stand alone PATS module)! The vehicles PATS Signature is written onto the Transponder as well! This ties the vehicle to a specific key set so those keys can not be used in any other vehicle with out reprogramming(transponders can be written to indefinitely but can only carry one vehicle signature)!

This will mean that the Key you borrowed will no longer start the lenders vehicle as the Key Transponder is now tied to your vehicle!

So to keep a good relation with the lender, be prepared to reprogram the borrowed key in the lenders vehicle and most likely having to erase and program his full set again!

[tim0574]

There is a caution with borrowing a Key from someone with a working key! Be aware that the key you borrow will not be able to start the lenders car after you have programmed it to your own!

Interesting. That's more in depth than I understand at the moment but I wasn't aware that the passive chip received any changes. Or is it different from different bit eras? I suppose communicating with some of those chips is how locksmiths are able to clone your existing key to another so that way you have two. That's fine for most situations but that means you don't have two admin keys if you need them to program further keys into the system if you only received one key when you purchased the vehicle.

Probably best to avoid that option if you can order a flat cheap transponder key quickly or at least get a cheaper blank from a local locksmith without having to pay their programming fee.